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Replace a water pump on your 240 series Volvo
(This was done on a 1982, 244GLE B21)

Old and New

If your water pump starts to become noisy or you notice excessive movement of the shaft or if your pump starts leaking, it will be time to replace your pump.

This job can be done by any handyman with a little patience. Pumps are available from Volvo dealers and other automotive parts suppliers.

On the photo above the old and the new pump, the new pump is a Japanese GMB pump, readily available and cheaper than the OEM Volvo pump. This pump comes complete with gasket, bolts, nuts and 2 rubber seals, however the 4 studs for the flange are not part of the package and have to be used from the old pump.

The water pump is located at the front of the engine block and the cooling fan is installed on the main flange. The pump is driven by two belts from the main crankshaft which also drive the alternator, the pump is half hidden by the bell shaped pulley.

  1. Drain the cooling system by disconnecting the lower radiator hose from the pump and push the hose down.

  2. Remove the fan shroud (2 screws at the top of the radiator).

  3. Remove the 4 nuts securing the fan and remove the fan.

  4. Slacken the belt tensioner at the alternator mounting and move the belts away from the pump.

  5. Disconnect the heater pipe, to the rear (one bolt).

  6. Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts securing the pump to the engine block.

  7. Remove the pump.

  8. when you have removed all this gear, you may like to consider the replacement of the cambelt .... or at least remove the belt cover and inspect the belt now you have such good access to it.

  9. Clean the block mating surface and the underside of the cylinder head surface where the pump connects to the head. Use some sandpaper !

  10. Clean the pipe and install the new rubber ring on the heater pipe.

  11. Prepare the new pump for installation and fit the new rubber ring.

  12. Install the gasket on the block (over the two studs).

  13. Install the pump in position over the two studs, install the 2 nuts. The holes for the studs are elongated to allow vertical movement of the pump for positioning.

  14. This step is very important to prevent leaks after installation ! Push the pump up against the cylinder head so the rubber ring seals properly between the pump and head. (You may like someone to assist you here)

  15. While holding the pump against the head (Push hard) put the 4 bolts in place and tighten the two nuts first, then tighten the 4 bolts equally.

  16. Fit the heater water pipe and the retaining bolt.240waterpumpnew.jpg (43901 bytes)

  17. Install the rubber water hose to the radiator.

  18. Fit the fan pulley and the belts

  19. Install the fan shroud and the fan.

  20. Tension the belts.

  21. Fill up the cooling system with water only.

  22. Warm up the engine and check for leaks.

  23. If there are no leaks, let the engine cool down a little and let some water out by removing the lower radiator hose and fill up with the appropriate amount of anti-freeze coolant.

Link to Cameron's water pump replacement on a B230

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Jim Hekker


Hi Jim,

Last week I was in the process of replacing the water pump in my '91 240 Volvo when I coincidentally came across your article on changing the water pump on the website, and found it a good source of reference.  The good news is: I have successfully replaced the water pump; and the interesting news is: it took me three days to finish the job.  I certainly do not want to discourage anyone from attempting the task, it was really quite straight forward had it not been for the mistake I made.  I would like to offer the following experience to preclude others from repeating my mistake:

One of the nuts holding the pump in place is located in the timing belt housing, and you would need to remove the upper shroud of the housing to access it.  As Murphy Law would have it, I dropped the nut into the timing belt housing as it was being backed out.  It took me the next couple of evenings to fish out the nut from the otherwise enclosed housing.  To avoid disassembling the timing belt housing, I had resorted to cutting a small hole through the plastic shroud at the bottom of the assembly to retrieve the nut.  One needs simply put a piece of cloth or any material underneath stud and nut in question to catch it when it comes loose to avoid the extra challenge.

One additional comment on Step 5 of the procedure: Follow the heater pipe along the engine block to locate the bolt that fastens the pipe to the engine block.  I believe the clarification will help the do-it-yourselfers like me.

I bought my GMB pump from an auto parts chain here in Calif for approx $60 US, and it comes with a life time warranty, that is if the pump fails while I still own the car, I will get a free replacement pump


Bob Chen
USA 1999 - 2021