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Replace a water pump on your 240 series Volvo
(This was done on a 1982, 244GLE B21)
Old and New
If
your water pump starts to become noisy or you notice excessive
movement of the shaft or if your pump starts leaking, it will be
time to replace your pump.
This job can be done by any handyman with a little patience.
Pumps are available from Volvo dealers and other automotive
parts suppliers.
On
the photo above the old and the new pump, the new pump is a
Japanese GMB pump, readily available and cheaper than the
OEM Volvo pump. This pump comes complete with gasket,
bolts, nuts and 2 rubber seals, however the 4 studs for
the flange are not part of the package and have to be used
from the old pump.
The
water pump is located at the front of the engine block and the
cooling fan is installed on the main flange. The pump is driven by
two belts from the main crankshaft which also drive the
alternator, the pump is half hidden by the bell shaped pulley.
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Drain
the cooling system by disconnecting the lower radiator hose
from the pump and push the hose down.
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Remove
the fan shroud (2 screws at the top of the radiator).
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Remove
the 4 nuts securing the fan and remove the fan.
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Slacken
the belt tensioner at the alternator mounting and move the
belts away from the pump.
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Disconnect
the heater pipe, to the rear (one bolt).
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Remove
the 4 bolts and 2 nuts securing the pump to the engine block.
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Remove
the pump.
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when
you have removed all this gear, you may like to consider the
replacement of the cambelt .... or at least remove the belt
cover and inspect the belt now you have such good access to
it.
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Clean
the block mating surface and the underside of the cylinder
head surface where the pump connects to the head. Use some
sandpaper !
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Clean
the pipe and install
the new rubber ring on the heater pipe.
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Prepare
the new pump for installation and fit the new rubber ring.
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Install
the gasket on the block (over the two studs).
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Install
the pump in position over the two studs, install the 2 nuts.
The holes for the studs are elongated to allow vertical
movement of the pump for positioning.
-
This
step is very important to prevent leaks after installation !
Push the pump up against the cylinder head so the rubber ring
seals properly between the pump and head. (You may like
someone to assist you here)
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While
holding the pump against the head (Push hard) put the 4 bolts
in place and tighten the two nuts first, then tighten the 4
bolts equally.
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Fit
the heater water pipe and the retaining bolt.
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Install
the rubber water hose to the radiator.
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Fit
the fan pulley and the belts
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Install
the fan shroud and the fan.
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Tension
the belts.
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Fill
up the cooling system with water only.
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Warm
up the engine and check for leaks.
-
If
there are no leaks, let the engine cool down a little and let
some water out by removing the lower radiator hose and fill up
with the appropriate amount of anti-freeze coolant.
Link
to Cameron's water pump replacement on a B230
Jim
Hekker
Webmaster
Feedback
Hi Jim,
Last week I was in
the process of replacing the water pump in my '91 240 Volvo when I
coincidentally came across your article on changing the water pump
on the website, and found it a good source of reference. The
good news is: I have successfully replaced the water pump; and the
interesting news is: it took me three days to finish the job.
I certainly do not want to discourage anyone from attempting the
task, it was really quite straight forward had it not been for the
mistake I made. I would like to offer the following
experience to preclude others from repeating my mistake:
One of the nuts
holding the pump in place is located in the timing belt housing,
and you would need to remove the upper shroud of the housing to
access it. As Murphy Law would have it, I dropped the nut
into the timing belt housing as it was being backed out. It
took me the next couple of evenings to fish out the nut from the
otherwise enclosed housing. To avoid disassembling the
timing belt housing, I had resorted to cutting a small hole
through the plastic shroud at the bottom of the assembly to
retrieve the nut. One needs simply put a piece of cloth or
any material underneath stud and nut in question to catch it when
it comes loose to avoid the extra challenge.
One additional
comment on Step 5 of the procedure: Follow the heater pipe along
the engine block to locate the bolt that fastens the pipe to the
engine block. I believe the clarification will help the
do-it-yourselfers like me.
I bought my GMB pump from an auto parts chain here in Calif
for approx $60 US, and it comes with a life time warranty, that is
if the pump fails while I still own the car, I will get a free
replacement pump
Regards,
Bob Chen
USA
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