Taranaki
Taranaki the Mountain (previously
known as Mount Egmont), preserved in Maori myth, dominates the
landscape of Taranaki (on clear days, that is) and has stood
vigil to European settlement of this western region. First
sighted by James Cook in 1770 Taranaki later became divided by
bitter and violent land wars of the 1850's fought between Maori
and Pakeha and Maori and Maori over suspect land purchases.
Explore historic homesteads and villages, magnificent
rhododendron gardens, historic coastal walkways, early coal
mines and take the time to travel through New Zealand rural
country unrivalled in it's sheer beauty and splendour.
State Highway 43
One of the most interesting routes to the Taranaki province is
from Taumaranui to Stratford along State Highway 43 (part
of The Forgotten
World Highway)
and via the
beautiful Tangarakau Gorge. Sites dating from a more peaceful
period of history include the famous Whangamomona Village,
established in 1895 to service a prosperous farming community
but declined now to a virtual ghost town. Distance: 150km
(including 30km of metal road). Travelling time: 2.5 hours by
car / 3-3.5 hours with caravan or campervan (allow at least this
time for stops and two days to see all the features completely)
Although part of the road is metal (gravel) it's a good, well
maintained road to travel, especially in my Volvo Amazon. The road is actually due to be sealed
completely by 2007, however I like it as it is.
Joshua
Morgan - Surveyor
Joshua Morgan was the
pioneer surveyor who blazed the trail through the Tangarakau
Gorge. While in charge of the survey party in this remote area
in February 1893, Morgan became severely ill with suspected
peritonitis. His
assistants hurried out to the coast at Urenui to bring back
medicine, which relieved the pain temporarily. Then Thomson, an
assistant went back a week later for more medical supplies as
Morgan was now delirious. However
before Thomson had returned Morgan had died. Morgan was buried
at the point where he died near the junction of the Pararata
Stream and the Tangarakau river. The grave can be seen from the
road bridge over the Tangarakau river and a short, very pleasant
walkway leads to it.
The
Moki Tunnel
The Moki Tunnel was the only one out of five that were
originally suggested along the route by surveyor Joshua Morgan
in the early 1890’s prior to his death in the Tangarakau Gorge
in 1893. The road over the Moki Saddle in Winter proved almost
unpassable, it used to be a swine, as soon as it rained you got
bogged in a car, everyone carried chains !
The tunnel was constructed in 1935-1936 by the Public Works
Department based in Stratford at that time. A coal-fired
steam-driven compressor with two power jack-hammers was on site
at the Western Tahora end.
Coal
was supplied from the mine in the Tangarakau Gorge and carted by
Mr. Ron McCartie of Tahora.
Later a diesel powered compressor was brought to the
site.
The spoil from the tunnel was used to fill where the road
presently runs., and was brought out by horse and skip on rail
from the tunnel to the tip face.
The
tunnel was originally built to a height of 5 meters, but to
allow modern stock trucks and trailers through it was lowered a
little. (Road raised)
Moki Tunnel |
Suitable
for Campervans |
Wangamomona Hotel
|
Mt.Taranaki
on a previous visit |
The
Wangamomona Hotel
The present hotel was built in 1911, it replaced the original
“Pub” opened in 1902 and burnt down 8 years later. The first
licence was transferred from Whenuakura, south of Patea in 1901.
The Wangamomona Hotel has a colourful past as a focal point for
the district – It was once said to have beeen sold with a wife
transferred as part payment.
During the widespread infuenza epidemic in 1919, it was used as
a hospital. It reverted to a Tavern in 1975 but has since
regained it’s full licence and provides accommodation and
meals.
Taranaki
The casual visitor to Taranaki may be forgiven for thinking that
there is only one volcano here. Strictly speaking, that’s
true. Historically, Taranaki has four volcanoes. Mt
Taranaki
is just the current flavour of the millennia. The Pouakai Range
(1400-metres) reached about 2000-metres 250-millennia ago before
erosion began its slow process. While the Kaitake Range reached
about the same height as Mt Taranaki (2518-metres), 500,000
years of erosion has reduced it to 684-metres. The Sugar Loaves,
off the coast of New Plymouth, are the eroded stumps of a
2000-millennia old volcano crater. With deep canyons, numerous
lava-rock caves, and the convergence of warm northern currents
and cold southern currents attracting diverse marine life, the
Sugar Loaves are also a marine park.
The
vast mudflows, or lahars, from Pouakai, some leaving deposits
nine-kilometres thick, were superceeded by those of Mt Taranaki.
Maori used some of the mound-like lahars as little fortresses.
These remarkable land formations are best seen on the western
ring plain.
Highlights
of Taranaki’s 300-kilometre coastline are the many 25-metre
tall pinnacles long since separated from the 100-metre distant
cliffs. Standing like silent sentinels, they are oblivious but
will ultimately succumb to the eroding sea. These spectacles are
best seen on the White Cliffs walkway between Pukearuhe and
Tongaporutu. Look for White Cliff Walkway signs. If you’ve
only got 30-minutes, visit the outstanding Three Sisters at
Tongaporutu.
Out
east, 11 rivers drain the steep beef and sheep hill country. The
Tangarakau River winds its way through the 500-metre high hills,
smothered in impenetrable rainforest. And look over the fertile
plain ring where over 2700 dairy farms produce almost 20 percent
of New Zealand’s total milk solids. To a cow - it’s heaven.
To a visitor - it’s green. Lush green.
Jim Hekker
Webmaster
Taranaki Links: Tourism
Taranaki
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